So you may only have 1H-5H but that's actually ten "speeds" because you also have 1L-5L via use of your splitter should you decide you need them. Again, I'm guessing on the exact positions. The end result is, while moving forward you really only use three positions on the shifter because you shift 1H through 3H, switch to your upper set of gears and move the shifter back to 3rd position (where you started) which is now 4H. I use an 18-speed setup which is slightly different. I don't know the 12-speed layout but it's probably similar to a 10-speed where 1st position is actually reverse, 2nd position is low, 3rd position is 1, or whatever. They use a gear reduction system more similar to that of a bicycle. Real trucks don't actually shift through 12 "gears". The OEM quick-shifters generally work well, because they are integrated into the bike's electronics which have sensors for all sorts of things including whether you are using the clutch.By the way, OP, if you want to get more immersed you ought to consider changing to a range+splitter shifter setup and changing your transmission layout to a 12-speed. I do not know if the PC5 will have that fault, because that one is installed on my race bike, and only ever sees full-throttle upshifts at high revs.Īnd I have NO idea how the Bazzaz would behave. quick-shift when I'm not using the clutch, but not when I am, with screw-ups only when I do something half-hearted. I ended up installing a microswitch on the actuation lever for the clutch which disables the quick-shifter switch if I am pulling in the clutch lever. I always use the clutch when street-riding to cushion gear changes, and if you try to do that, the quick-shifter cuts ignition in addition, leading to an awful lurch. The PC3 works fine on the track where you positively shift without the clutch at revs that are firmly beyond the minimum-RPM setpoint and always at wide-open throttle, but not on the street, where that's not necessarily the case. I've since put some electrical tape on these connection points with the hope of reducing water intrusion. This is a weak spot for water intrusion, and I'm pretty sure that's what caused the issue that I had. With the PowerCommander shifters, the wires to the PC module have plain ordinary bare ends that are inserted into small holes in the PC module and then tightened in place with a set screw. On the PC5, I had an issue with it shortly after installation - randomly false-triggering leading to the engine cutting out when it shouldn't. I have a PowerCommander 3 quick-shifter on one bike that is street ridden and a PC5 quick-shifter on another bike that is strictly a race bike. Since you already have a Bazzaz unit installed on the bike, the sensible thing to do is install a Bazzaz quickshifter sensor and make use of what you already have, rather than installing yet another separate electrical gizmo and box and wiring harness.
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